Monday 20 October 2014

Alexander McQueen AW13

Promotional Imagery for Alexander McQueen AW13

The main inspiration for Alexander McQueen's AW13 collection (designed by Sarah Burton) was drawn from piety and Catholicism. The ten outfits were divided into subgroups: communion, nuns, popes, cardinals and angels. Although the collection primarily held religious connotations, the influence of Elizabethan fashion is evident within each outfit, and the outfits of the "cardinals" appear to be a nod to the Virgin Queen herself. The way the models walked through the venue actually seemed like some sort of procession within a church, and the venue perfectly coincided with the theme of the collection.

Communion looks 1 & 2 (photos from style.com)

The first looks to come down the runway were Communion. Dressed in virgin white, the models looked ethereal. The use of white lace, puffed sleeves and layering of skirts made these outfits seem reminiscent of elaborate baptismal costume, and I found the boxy cuts of the dresses to be almost like the cut of children's clothing. These looks definitely had an air of purity about them.

Close ups of looks 1 & 2 (photos from vogue.co.uk)

I absolutely loved the intricacy of the white lace, and I also thought the white finger caps with bells on were a beautiful touch. The shoes which accompanied the Communion looks really echoed Elizabethan regality, with gorgeous pearl detailing, and I also liked the more contemporary touch of a metal capped toe.

Nuns looks 3 & 4 (Photos from style.com)

The second subgroup were the Nuns, wearing outfits compromised of black leather and studs. The silhouette of their outfits really resembled some sort of punk rock habit, especially in Look 4 with the prominent white cut off at the shoulders, contrasting against the black leather.

Close ups of looks 3 & 4 (photos from vogue.co.uk)

I thought these looks  were a really interesting take on the traditional costume of nuns, and I love that Sarah Burton has opted for a more punk vibe, especially with the knee-high black leather studded boots and pearl-encrusted knuckle-dusters.

Popes looks 5 & 6 (photos from style.com)

Then the Popes came down the runway and they were also wearing black. I absolutely loved these outfits and I felt they really had an air of gothic romanticism about them. The historic influence was so clear in these ensembles, and I thought the pattern on the bodices looked similar to the architecture of old churches and the structure of stained-glass windows.

Close ups of looks 5 & 6 (photos from vogue.co.uk)

I also think the combination of alternative streetstyle with historic fashion is a key theme in the Popes outfits, for example the pearl fishnet tights. These were probably one of my favourite accessories of the whole collection as I thought they complimented the outfits beautifully and were just such a unique concept.

Cardinals looks 7 & 8 (photos from style.com)

Of all the looks in the collection the Cardinals are definitely my favourite. It's clear that these looks were heavily inspired by the style of Queen Elizabeth. Although Queen Elizabeth was a Protestant and her reign returned England to Protestantism, she treated both Catholics and Protestants equally, unlike her sister Mary who reigned before her and executed hundreds of Protestants in her attempt to create a Catholic England. It's interesting that the McQueen collection has these contrasting religious and historical themes, but I think it works really well with the story behind the collection. The Cardinals outfits are absolutely stunning and I feel they really capture the essence of Elizabethan fashion. Although ruffs have been used in every outfit of this collection, I feel that they compliment looks 7 & 8 best. The colour scheme of these ensembles are beautiful and exude decadence, and I love the intricate embroidery.

Angels looks 9 & 10 (photos from style.com)

The last looks on the runway were the Angels. Saved for the finale, this contemporary take on the classic Christian angels were stunning. Substituting ostrich feather sleeves for wings, the religious reference was evident and the final looks tied together the whole show perfectly.

Throughout this collection there were many Elizabethan motifs; pearls, ruffs, intricate embroidery and all of these aspects worked very well with the religious theme of the collection. I really loved the use of the head cages in all of the looks, each one coordinating with it's individual outfit. I think these cages were quite reminiscent of Elizabethan headpieces and brought a really opulent feel to the collection in it's entirety.

photos from vogue.co.uk

The Alexander McQueen AW13 show can be seen in full here:





No comments:

Post a Comment